This Months *Bake-Off*

Chocolate, Pear & Almond Tart Vs. Damson Tart 

Having spent the majority of this year sweating it out in the mayhem and marvel of a professional kitchen, I managed to learn a few tricks from the pastry section.  From tuilles and spikes to purees and compotes. I even created wonderfully light soufflé laced with fruity, sweet-sour raspberries under the pressure of a Saturday night service.  The key to the feared souffle was the consistency of the base mixture, a lightness of hand and  perfect timing.  Taken out of the oven to early and you are faced with a dessert more akin to  a warm Ski yogurt.   A fraction to long and you are left with a deflated pillow crawling back into its ramekin in shame.  Just right and your raspberry tower stands royally upon its plate, dressed in a vale of icing sugar, crowned with ripe perfumed fruits and rushed to the diner to be devoured in smooth, airy and delightful mouthfuls.

However, for some reason I never got my hands on making pastry.  Do you really need hands of ice, a chilled slab of marble and a delicate touch?  Armed with  the Michel Roux book ‘Pastry’ I gave it a try at home this week to find out.

I attempted the Pate Sucree, a sweet but versatile pastry that holds better than the more biscuity, buttery and melt in the mouth Pate Sable.

250g Plain flour

100g Butter (cubed and slightly softened)

100g Icing sugar (sifted)

Pinch of salt

2 Eggs (at room temp)

It’s so satisfying rolling your sleeves up and getting stuck in and following the simple step-by-step guide it was surprisingly simple.  I had overworked the ingredients at the ‘crumbing’ stage, putting a little too much warmth into the butter which made the pastry a little tight but I was still pleased with the results.

Pastry made, it was time for this months bake off.

Chocolate, Pear & Almond Tart

The pears were poached until soft in a sugar syrup flavoured with fragrant vanilla and a touch of warm cinnamon to help bring out their sweetness.  The fruit was then layered in the baked tart case and topped with a crunch of toasted almonds.  For the ganache I patiently whisked the butter one piece at a time into the melted chocolate, cream and glucose watching closely as the the consistency became more beautiful, velvety and glossy with every cube (recipe in ‘Pastry’).  I poured in the silky ribbons of chocolate, filling the tart case to the brim and left it to chill in the refrigerator while sticky fingers fought over the remaining chocolate in the bowl.  The tart was finished with poached mini-pears, caramelised with a little extra icing sugar and a blowtorch.

Pros: Almonds helped bring the flavours of chocolate and pear together and the ganache was rich and velvety.

Cons: William pears would have worked a lot better than conference and the pastry was rolled a touch thin

Damson Tart

The winning ingredient here was an amazing homemade damson jam (courtesy of the mother-in-law).  The small, oval, midnight blue damson fruit has a tartness that makes it perfect for jams and jellies.  This particular jam had a heady almost alcoholic flavour with hints of star anise and was reminisent of one to many damson gins over the festive period.  I layered the jam generously over the part baked tart case, topped with a vanilla sponge mixture and almonds before baking.

Pros: It was all about the jam (delicious) and a simple combination of flavour.

Cons: If i’m honest the sponge was a bit heavy.

Verdict

Undercover Commis – Damson Tart

Girlfriend – Chocolate, Pear and Almond

Neighbour 1 – Chocolate, Pear and Almond

Neighbour 2 – Damson Tart

Which one of this month’s *Bake-Off* do you think deserves  top spot on the podium?

Snovember Lunch : Eggs en Cocotte

With the arrival of the snow this week and the imminent fear of unemployment in the New Year, I spent most of this morning staring out of a frosted window in my pants pondering my current situation... What am I going to eat? What’s left in the cupboards? And how am I going to afford to eat out and write another review for this blog? Actually come to think of it maybe I only started this blog to avoid having to look for a new job.  Well let’s be honest it’s going to be some time so I’m resorting to sharing my lunch with you.

Having flicked through a few books and my rapidly depleting cupboards I decided on Eggs en Cocotte or Baked Eggs from the simple yet brilliant book by Michel Roux ‘Eggs’.

The original recipe calls for Girolles (also known as Chanterelles), a beautiful aromatic wild mushroom that grows in Scotland.  The season begins in spring with the majority growing just after harsh rainfalls during the summer months.  Sadly, they are just out of season and unlikely to pop up at my local corner shop anytime soon.  A few Buttons or Chestnuts will do just fine.

To get started, part fill the buttered moulds with the reduced cream of mushrooms, parsley, thyme and a squeeze of lemon juice, top with an egg, a spoonful more cream, put in a bain-marie in the oven at 170C for 10 minutes and wait.

With the snow falling ever harder, a mound of heavily buttered toast and three minutes left on the timer, my girlfriend fell through the door having been sent home from work and stood windswept and shivering in the hall. That is some timing!

An egg down but with company we tucked in.  These little pots of pleasure pretty much burst with sunshine as the yolks split and joined forces with the earthy, herbed cream.  Rich, warm and absolutely delicious this time of year, especially if your snowed in and halfway through an episode of Murder She Wrote while you’re supposed to be at work.  Next time maybe I’d add a piece of crisp pancetta or smoked bacon but that’s the joy of this quick lunch, you are likely to have most of the ingredients lying round the kitchen. No need to venture out in the snow.

Having mopped up and cleaned the ramekin with the last standing soldier of toast, I only wish the other one was still there!

Book: Eggs by Michel Roux

(Will get a camera ASAP this phone is not really cutting it)