This Months *Bake-Off*

Chocolate, Pear & Almond Tart Vs. Damson Tart 

Having spent the majority of this year sweating it out in the mayhem and marvel of a professional kitchen, I managed to learn a few tricks from the pastry section.  From tuilles and spikes to purees and compotes. I even created wonderfully light soufflé laced with fruity, sweet-sour raspberries under the pressure of a Saturday night service.  The key to the feared souffle was the consistency of the base mixture, a lightness of hand and  perfect timing.  Taken out of the oven to early and you are faced with a dessert more akin to  a warm Ski yogurt.   A fraction to long and you are left with a deflated pillow crawling back into its ramekin in shame.  Just right and your raspberry tower stands royally upon its plate, dressed in a vale of icing sugar, crowned with ripe perfumed fruits and rushed to the diner to be devoured in smooth, airy and delightful mouthfuls.

However, for some reason I never got my hands on making pastry.  Do you really need hands of ice, a chilled slab of marble and a delicate touch?  Armed with  the Michel Roux book ‘Pastry’ I gave it a try at home this week to find out.

I attempted the Pate Sucree, a sweet but versatile pastry that holds better than the more biscuity, buttery and melt in the mouth Pate Sable.

250g Plain flour

100g Butter (cubed and slightly softened)

100g Icing sugar (sifted)

Pinch of salt

2 Eggs (at room temp)

It’s so satisfying rolling your sleeves up and getting stuck in and following the simple step-by-step guide it was surprisingly simple.  I had overworked the ingredients at the ‘crumbing’ stage, putting a little too much warmth into the butter which made the pastry a little tight but I was still pleased with the results.

Pastry made, it was time for this months bake off.

Chocolate, Pear & Almond Tart

The pears were poached until soft in a sugar syrup flavoured with fragrant vanilla and a touch of warm cinnamon to help bring out their sweetness.  The fruit was then layered in the baked tart case and topped with a crunch of toasted almonds.  For the ganache I patiently whisked the butter one piece at a time into the melted chocolate, cream and glucose watching closely as the the consistency became more beautiful, velvety and glossy with every cube (recipe in ‘Pastry’).  I poured in the silky ribbons of chocolate, filling the tart case to the brim and left it to chill in the refrigerator while sticky fingers fought over the remaining chocolate in the bowl.  The tart was finished with poached mini-pears, caramelised with a little extra icing sugar and a blowtorch.

Pros: Almonds helped bring the flavours of chocolate and pear together and the ganache was rich and velvety.

Cons: William pears would have worked a lot better than conference and the pastry was rolled a touch thin

Damson Tart

The winning ingredient here was an amazing homemade damson jam (courtesy of the mother-in-law).  The small, oval, midnight blue damson fruit has a tartness that makes it perfect for jams and jellies.  This particular jam had a heady almost alcoholic flavour with hints of star anise and was reminisent of one to many damson gins over the festive period.  I layered the jam generously over the part baked tart case, topped with a vanilla sponge mixture and almonds before baking.

Pros: It was all about the jam (delicious) and a simple combination of flavour.

Cons: If i’m honest the sponge was a bit heavy.

Verdict

Undercover Commis – Damson Tart

Girlfriend – Chocolate, Pear and Almond

Neighbour 1 – Chocolate, Pear and Almond

Neighbour 2 – Damson Tart

Which one of this month’s *Bake-Off* do you think deserves  top spot on the podium?

Eteaket Tea Boutique & Cafe - Edinburgh

I dusted off my wellington boots and headed for the city on a snowy November afternoon, excited at the prospect of sipping tea from mismatching china cups and devouring home made cakes at Eteaket Tea Boutique and Cafe.

Welcomed by the slogan ‘KEEP CALM AND HAVE A CUP OF TEA’ I suddenly felt a little unnerved. Heading to the table I was surprised somewhat by the interior which was brightly lit, clinical and disguised with luminous faux antique chairs. It just didn’t seem to fit with the kitsch boutique that Eteaket markets itself as.

With a neat selection of sandwiches and cakes alongside over 40 loose leaf teas ‘expertly sourced from around the world’, it took us a little while to make our choice. Decided, we gave our order to the rather disinterested staff and waited for our tea. ‘Life’s a Peach’ was a light, aromatic and peachy Ceylon blended tea, which got an approving ‘mmm... life really is peachy’ noise from my companion after every sip. Delicious. Wanting to try something adventurous but feeling that one of their hand sewn teas might be a step too far, we went for a rare blend green tea ‘Gyokuro’. Eager to try I went for a quick whiff before my official tea timer had run its course. I was met by the aroma of seaweed. Intrigued, I waited the final thirty seconds and tasted what can only be described as ‘Oysterish’ tea. There was no clue to this on the well written menu.

The food arrived in all its tiered glory as we had opted to try the afternoon tea. The sandwiches of smoked salmon and cream cheese and tuna and sweetcorn were generously filled in chunky slices of fresh olive bloomer. Enjoyable, substantial but underwhelming and sadly from here it went downhill.

 I know it is chilly outside but all the more reason not to serve our scone stone cold. Soft and dry, it really was the type of scone that you could find at any motorway service station in the land. With sloppily served sweet jam and clotted cream that had been hanging around for too long, we were disappointed. The mini-cupcakes seemed to have been created at the hands of an eight year old and tasted so too, with sickly sweet icing atop a dense and lifeless sponge. As for the Viennese, it had unbelievably managed to take on the flavour of white spirit. I actually have no idea how this was achieved.

My companion still managed to enjoy the experience but readily admits she would have enjoyed almost anything served on such lovely vintage china. Amazing how a tea stand can fool the taste buds.

It is important to support small independent businesses and Eteaket really do have an amazing array of teas to sample. They should be commended for their enthusiasm and commitment to fine teas but seem so busy promoting the brand, website, online store, gifts and events that they’ve forgotten the importance of baking simple, fantastic patisseries and serving them with a smile.

3/10

Snovember Lunch : Eggs en Cocotte

With the arrival of the snow this week and the imminent fear of unemployment in the New Year, I spent most of this morning staring out of a frosted window in my pants pondering my current situation... What am I going to eat? What’s left in the cupboards? And how am I going to afford to eat out and write another review for this blog? Actually come to think of it maybe I only started this blog to avoid having to look for a new job.  Well let’s be honest it’s going to be some time so I’m resorting to sharing my lunch with you.

Having flicked through a few books and my rapidly depleting cupboards I decided on Eggs en Cocotte or Baked Eggs from the simple yet brilliant book by Michel Roux ‘Eggs’.

The original recipe calls for Girolles (also known as Chanterelles), a beautiful aromatic wild mushroom that grows in Scotland.  The season begins in spring with the majority growing just after harsh rainfalls during the summer months.  Sadly, they are just out of season and unlikely to pop up at my local corner shop anytime soon.  A few Buttons or Chestnuts will do just fine.

To get started, part fill the buttered moulds with the reduced cream of mushrooms, parsley, thyme and a squeeze of lemon juice, top with an egg, a spoonful more cream, put in a bain-marie in the oven at 170C for 10 minutes and wait.

With the snow falling ever harder, a mound of heavily buttered toast and three minutes left on the timer, my girlfriend fell through the door having been sent home from work and stood windswept and shivering in the hall. That is some timing!

An egg down but with company we tucked in.  These little pots of pleasure pretty much burst with sunshine as the yolks split and joined forces with the earthy, herbed cream.  Rich, warm and absolutely delicious this time of year, especially if your snowed in and halfway through an episode of Murder She Wrote while you’re supposed to be at work.  Next time maybe I’d add a piece of crisp pancetta or smoked bacon but that’s the joy of this quick lunch, you are likely to have most of the ingredients lying round the kitchen. No need to venture out in the snow.

Having mopped up and cleaned the ramekin with the last standing soldier of toast, I only wish the other one was still there!

Book: Eggs by Michel Roux

(Will get a camera ASAP this phone is not really cutting it)

The King's Wark - Leith, Edinburgh

We arrived in the Port of Leith, an industrial hub lying to the north of the city which has undergone extensive regeneration since the eighties. It has been transformed from a post-war deprived area of ruffians, prostitutes and pirates to Scotland’s Michelin Mile.  Strolling along the cobbled streets aside the Water of Leith I get a feeling the people needing to benefit most from such regeneration were sadly shipped out, as sleek glass frontages and foie gras were shipped in.

Stepping through the door of The King’s Wark I felt warmed that some of the history of Leith still remained.  A wooden clad bar packed with people chatting over bountiful portions whilst Captain Sparrow and his merry wenches busily and efficiently squeezed between tables with steaming bowls of chowder

What is it about Mussels that make you feel so comforted?  Is it eating with your hands? Or slurping up the remaining juices with chunks of well buttered bread?  Whatever the answer the mussels here were no exception and were by far the highlight of the meal.  Bursts of succulent Scottish seafood dissolved happily in the mouth leaving a sweet and creamy taste just long enough to grab the next meaty morsel, peel it from its shell and pop it in, delicious.  My fellow shipmate and I fought over the remaining sauce, so light, yet full of flavour I would have readily taken a running jump from the plank and dived right in!  (Need I say more!)

Washed down with a pint of the local Deuchers IPA we waited cheerily for our mains.  A generous sized Aberdeen Angus Ribeye arrived alongside proper pub chips, although flavoursome this prime cut of beef was sadly over cooked.   The only real disappointment was a Baked Pollack from the specials board. It had less flavour then if you were to lick the salty deck of the good ship king’s wark dry.  Overall the dish was a tad drowned and disappointing with limp leaves left swimming for the edge of the plate to dry out.  As for the dessert, well, a bog standard brownie, no more, maybe a little less but the heart and soul of this place doesn’t lie in its desserts.

Although the food may have gone a little flat, our spirits certainly hadn’t.  An infectious, bustling place full of good cheer, hearty food and a great atmosphere, we left warmed and contented.  I would return tomorrow for those mussels and will be back again next time the ship docks because the Kings Wark does exactly what it says on the tin, honest pub food at fantastic prices in a cosy and confident atmosphere.  I only wish there were more watering holes like this one.  Ship ahoy.

6/10