The King's Wark - Leith, Edinburgh

We arrived in the Port of Leith, an industrial hub lying to the north of the city which has undergone extensive regeneration since the eighties. It has been transformed from a post-war deprived area of ruffians, prostitutes and pirates to Scotland’s Michelin Mile.  Strolling along the cobbled streets aside the Water of Leith I get a feeling the people needing to benefit most from such regeneration were sadly shipped out, as sleek glass frontages and foie gras were shipped in.

Stepping through the door of The King’s Wark I felt warmed that some of the history of Leith still remained.  A wooden clad bar packed with people chatting over bountiful portions whilst Captain Sparrow and his merry wenches busily and efficiently squeezed between tables with steaming bowls of chowder

What is it about Mussels that make you feel so comforted?  Is it eating with your hands? Or slurping up the remaining juices with chunks of well buttered bread?  Whatever the answer the mussels here were no exception and were by far the highlight of the meal.  Bursts of succulent Scottish seafood dissolved happily in the mouth leaving a sweet and creamy taste just long enough to grab the next meaty morsel, peel it from its shell and pop it in, delicious.  My fellow shipmate and I fought over the remaining sauce, so light, yet full of flavour I would have readily taken a running jump from the plank and dived right in!  (Need I say more!)

Washed down with a pint of the local Deuchers IPA we waited cheerily for our mains.  A generous sized Aberdeen Angus Ribeye arrived alongside proper pub chips, although flavoursome this prime cut of beef was sadly over cooked.   The only real disappointment was a Baked Pollack from the specials board. It had less flavour then if you were to lick the salty deck of the good ship king’s wark dry.  Overall the dish was a tad drowned and disappointing with limp leaves left swimming for the edge of the plate to dry out.  As for the dessert, well, a bog standard brownie, no more, maybe a little less but the heart and soul of this place doesn’t lie in its desserts.

Although the food may have gone a little flat, our spirits certainly hadn’t.  An infectious, bustling place full of good cheer, hearty food and a great atmosphere, we left warmed and contented.  I would return tomorrow for those mussels and will be back again next time the ship docks because the Kings Wark does exactly what it says on the tin, honest pub food at fantastic prices in a cosy and confident atmosphere.  I only wish there were more watering holes like this one.  Ship ahoy.

6/10